Day 4: Palamidi Fortress & Epidavros

How many steps are there to the Palamidi Fortress – depends it would seem on who wrote the guidebook. But between 850 & 999, on second thoughts one can always get a taxi, or I bet there’s a donkey lurking in some back alley waiting to take you on a hair raising trip for a few thousand drachma. Poor donkey! Why do they never look happy?

The fortress takes its name from that very clever Greek, Palamedes, who according to mythology, invented the dice, lighthouses, scales and a form of chess, amongst many other important things, to many to list.

  • K: Gid Coe sounds different when listening from abroad πŸ“»
  • H: πŸ˜†
  • H: Have done 6 trips up and down the stairs this morning so that’s 210 steps up 😁. Only 23 more to do πŸ₯΄
  • K: πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚
  • H: Me neither. Just done another 4 trips up and down our stairs. πŸ˜†

Epidavros – was once a famous healing centre and sanctuary with temples, altars, statues, stadium and theatre, a theatre that is now it’s star attraction, the rest of the site is really just a pile of rubble. Built in two tiers in perfect symmetry, with amazing acoustics, it’s a tribute to the mathematicians of the time, and probably still now.

H: Like J’s rendition of the opening to 12th night😁

K: if music be the food of love, play on.. wonder how she’s getting on with zorba? πŸ€”

H: I think she got banned cos she was getting too friendly with the men on either side of her 😁.

K: palamidi starting to look nice in late afternoon sun. shame you’ve still not made it to the top?

H: Not half way yet πŸ˜…. But am having to do office work at the same time😁

  • K: that’s dedication taking your road closures and dumped cars to Greece!
  • H: Just done another 5 so over halfway now 😁
  • K: Yay!
  • H: 14 to go πŸ˜†
  • K: are you stopping for tea or shall I go and play gooseberry to J and Zorba!
  • H: Definitely stopping for tea. Need a baklava to replace the sugar have used up 😁. Think might have stifado tonight after  all this exercise πŸ™‚
  • K: Imagine you will be stifado! I quite fancy keftedes with some piperies psites..

K: nibbles.. πŸ˜†

H: Dates? Or prunes?

H: Now down 20 trips. Just looked at itinerary and that says 850. So actually only got 5 more to go πŸ˜†

K: guide book says 999 what have explore done with the others? 😱 but then it’s American, they always boast.. bigger and better!

  • K: my lovely guidebook from 1968 as published in London says 857..
  • K: btw they’re olives.
  • H: Friend says ‘I so wish we had smell apps!! Feeling nostalgic for Greek holidays, so made a Stifado . An amazing Greek beef casserole with caramelised onions nutmeg cinnamon and clove red wine brandy and rosemary. When life returns will have to have an evening with lots of food drink and merriment xx’
  • K: πŸ‘» πŸ‘» πŸ‘» but sounds πŸ˜‹

H: So this is the view from J’s room…..

H: This the view from oursπŸ˜†

K: πŸ˜‚ πŸ˜‚

K: This is J’s roommate

J: Please God, she`s not going to tread the grapes for my wine in those shoes, is she….albeit they are probably preferable to her bare feet!

H: Challenge completedπŸ˜ƒ. 875 steps done! Like the idea of the blog. 😁. Have been giving our greek day to the folks on our daily skype call. They are liking the depths of our imagination πŸ˜†

H: I decided yesterday that as we should have been going to the Palamidi Fortress by climbing 850 steps, I thought I would replicate this by going up and down the stairs in the communal hallway in my flat block. There are 5 flights of 7 stairs – so this entailed going up and down 25 times. I did 6 fairly quickly as had 3 bags of shopping, followed by another trip with the post and rubbish and 1 for luck. After lunch I did another 4 and a further 5 at cup of tea time. Just before dinner, another 5. The final 5 were completed by 8pm. And the final upshot of this….I arrived at the fortress too late and it had closed, my neighbours must have wondered what the hell was happening outside their doors and I have sore muscles today.

J: Oh damn it, I`m in fits of giggles and now I am also suffering fitness envy, says she….reaching for another bottle of wine. Would it go with a dozen Cadbury`s cream eggs do you suppose? 

C: Shame all that effort and it was closed. Had a look at a pic of the fort and yes it’s on quite a big hill, shame there was no cable car as Tbilisi, that would have saved you getting such sore legs. 

J: Zorba offered to piggy back H but she was too proud to accept, so he piggy backed me instead, as I have absolutely no prise and I got there just before it closed….ya boo!  Merely yet another ABC!….albeit with great views.

K: I got a taxi, chilled at the top, had a bottle of wine and a few olives with a melitzanosalata and pitta. got bored waiting and took a donkey ride back down.. sorry you guys couldn’t make it!  Anyhow, what’s with all the exercise murlarky!  we’re on holiday, supposed to be away from Matts daily exercise regime..  xx πŸ˜‚ 

J: Typical of you to get everything jus right. You have the luck of the devil. The cafΓ© had closed when I got there and there was not even an olive to be had, let alone a refreshing drink and some sustaining food. Then, to cap it all, I was lumbered with having to guide Carol back down, where we passed H still struggling up hill….but then we all know that I`m well and truly on the downhill  slope!!  I am now quite bruised from Carol repeatedly thumping me. Well that`s my exercise over for a while yet. I`m now only doing arm exercises, ie. lifting bottles, and sometimes glasses, of wine.” Yamas!”   (My laptop doesn`t have the Greek alphabet, I wonder why…..!)

Nafplion – or Nafplio or Nauplia or even Navplion – take your pick. A charming town with easy strolling, narrow, winding streets full of atmosphere, wonderful Venetian architecture and a lovely beach promenade. Over the years it as been ruled by Ottomans and Venetians, it was the first capital of independent Greece (1820’s) after the war of independence against the Turks, and where the first ‘Greek’ Printing Office, Parliament, Theatre of Greece and Pharmacy were constructed.

Day 3: We take the bus to Nafplion

Urghhh! zzzzz! an early start this morning but apparently we will be visiting one of the most beautiful towns in the Peloponnese. But on the way we stop at Korinthos to admire the canal.

  • H: Warm sunny day ahead  😁
  • K: seems like quite a chilled and relaxed day ahead. a pottering sort of day.
  • H: Nice view of corinth canal😁
  • K: bit deep! amazing how something that deep was dug by hand, well sort of.
  • 602 B.C – the tyrant of Corinth Periander
  • 307 B.C – Demetrius Poliorcetes
  • 37 – 67 AC – the Romans
  • 1687 – the Venetians
  • etc etc etc πŸ₯±
  • 1893 – eventually!! the canal opened

Lunch – says ideal for picnics, so lets have one!

K: if we’ve got time in Nafplion the archaeology museum is supposed to be worth a visit. I’ve also got a town walk we can follow, rather than be herded round..

H: Lets do our town walk 😁. Apparently there are lots of secret passageways. The archaeology museum is housed in a venetian building built in the baroque style.

K: supposed to be a good display of jewellery and glass beads.

H: That was a lovely walk 😁. Fancy a drink?

K: ooo yes, a nice cold beer I think. loved the murals outside the church of  St Mary Above All Saints. do you fancy a fish tea down on the harbour front. supposed to be some good restaurants down there..

  • H: As the weather is dry think fish supper at the harbour a great idea. Better check with J 😁
  • K: 9pm suit for a stretch on the harbour front.
  • H: Si 😁
  • K: oh well my fish and chips were nice as was the sounds from the harbour
  • H: Lovely barmy evening 😁
  • K: thinking πŸ€” tmrw, taxi or steps..
  • K: waistline or not… πŸ˜†
  • H: Might see how hot it will be. Apparently theres plenty of stopping places.
  • K: Well we did all those steps in tbilisi.. tho part of it was cable car..
  • H: I think that u could do it no prob as you did the gergeti climb last year
  • K: yes I’ll prob do it.. you know me.. like a challenge.. but hope its an early start while its a bit cooler. don’t want to end up with beetroot face..
  • H: πŸ˜† might try practicing by doing my stairs up 28 times

Day 2: Athens

K: Kalimera: Greek yoghurt with Greek 🍯 πŸ˜‹

H: Kalimera 😁. Hearty breakfast consumed. Ready for the acropolisπŸ™‚

K: yep. just need to change my shoes and get some sun cream. β˜€ wonder where J’s got to?

J: Sorry, I got waylaid in the most wonderful, albeit the seediest part of Athens but I did have great time. I met and danced with Zorba, all night long, as we are a similar vintage….the 60s dear girl and most definitely not the 70s, is my era  (you forget that I`m old and am now officially deemed` vulnerable`!!)….I`m now woozy on ouzo and olives, not to mention Zorba and don`t feel in the least vulnerable.

We walked up through Plaka, very vibrant with twisty lanes, and then through Anafiotika, lots of lovely spring flowers adorn the paths, small yards and houses with blue doors and maroon shutters. Cats desperate for sausage were left a little hungry!

Our main goal for the morning, the Acropolis, a must do if in Athens. Lots of lovely ancient ruins on a limestone plateau. Glad we carried lots of water, sun cream and remembered our hats and parasols.

The must sees, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the delightful proportions of the Temple of Athena Nike (neek-ee) in its Ionic style, the prestigious Erechtheion and the Parthenon, a Doric temple that served the cult of Virgin Athena.

Feeling a bit peckish, but we decide to nip into the Ancient Agora (a public space) before a late lunch, nothing more than a bag of ruins really with some 1950’s reconstruction! Though it was in the Archaic and Classical period (600 – 100BC) the heart of government and the judiciary. The Athenian Agora, as opposed to anyone else’s Agora, served 2 functions, that of a centre for politics and as a market place. The Temple of Hephaitos is well preserved with a decorated frieze, some panels are unfinished, or maybe not even started.

H: That looks scrummy πŸ˜‹.  Acropolis was huge πŸ˜€. Will need to have a greek mountain tea too😁

K: Greek Mountain tea.. reads a bit like chamomile.. yuk.. hay bales..

H: Do wonder what is does to u 😁. I’ll stick to a black tea and save the mountain one for the last day!

K: maybe go first day and get it over and done with  πŸ₯΅

K: see we have a free afternoon. fancy going down to kerameikos for a wander and then onto gazi.

  • H: I fancy a souvlaki for tea πŸ˜‹
  • K: Well with the temperature set to soar as the trip goes on I might start, on cooler days, with stifado. πŸ˜‹
  • H: I can see us eating and drinking a lot on this tripπŸ˜…
  • K: definitely, haven’t even got to desert yet.. baklava is only the start.. Good job I love honey 🍯
  • H: Wonder how many of those we will consume over the holsπŸ˜…. How can people go to greece and want English fish & chips
  • K: yuk.. well Greek style fish and chips.. but not our fatty yukky fish and chips.. and full English.. πŸ˜†
  • K: this bar you’ve chosen for tonight is playing some real funk tunes.. 🎢
  • H: πŸ˜πŸ•ΊπŸΎ your choice tomorrow in Nafplion πŸ˜…
  • K: May need a rest.. 😴
  • H: Maybe a quiet coastal bar 😁
  • K: mmm that sounds nice, somewhere to dip my toes in the water..

K: C, just off to bed after a tiring day spent wandering at the acropolis, kerameikos and gazi where H had us go and spend the evening in a groovy jazz funk bar. xx

J: You’re being extremely mean in your endeavours to make C decidedly envious of we three enjoying such a fabulous trip. I`m still suffering a hangover in the wake of all my nocturnal revelling with Zorba, hotly followed by boozing in the jazz bar. H, you really are leading both K and me astray when we are both usually such staid, tee-total with bangers and mash being as exciting as our food fare ever gets, stay-at-homes.  xxx  A hair of the dog may be the solution.

Day 1 : Onward to Athens

Our Journey has truly begun.

  • H: Would u believe it I got through airport security without being frisked 😁
  • K: way hey.. left your explosives at home!
  • K: lovely pret breakfast pot this morning.. and πŸ₯
  • H: And cuppa 🍡
  • K: Now where’s that J got to, probably propping up the bar already! 🍷

H: Good view from the hotel 😁

K: beers not bad either. 🍻

  • H: 😁 🍻
  • K: it’s jam hot here in Athens. mmmm mmmmm tank fly boss walk jam nitty gritty..
  • H: U listening to the boys from the big bad city😁

J has now taken us to a seedy part of Athens and we are in a bar, drinking ouzo and dancing to Zorba the Greek with Demis Rousoss and Nana Mouskouri!

  • H: Is that demis roussos over there?
  • K: for ever and ever you’ll be the one.. 🎢
  • K: don’t know about you but this Greek disco lark is knackering! I blame J, taking us down to these seedy city joints πŸ˜‚ πŸ•Ί πŸ•Ί πŸ•Ί
  • H: I’m worn out after zorba and I haven’t even started on the  plate smashing πŸ₯΄
  • K: I just bumped into stavros up at the bar. blimmin cheek innit E asked me up for a kebab.

Day 0: Greece here we come!

My finally awaited holiday clothes have arrived just as I am about to leave for the airport hotel! Better late than never.. but hey-ho at least I won’t have to slum it in last years attire! And tonight’s hotel, I know, having stayed there before will be a sumptuous affair with good quality wine, yummy food and a comfy bed. Downside, three floors of stairs but then maybe practice for the many Greek steps that I am about to encounter.

But wait!!! Oh Greek Pooh Bears..! We’re not going!!! CV19!!!

So, everybody, please enjoy our mad imaginations that lock down in the UK brings πŸ™‚ We’re not far from the madding crowd, we are part of the madding crowd!